Balenciaga experimental, Balmain sparkling, A. F. Vandevorst Simple
Big disparity of styles last week in the Parisian Fashion Week: while Nicolas Ghesquière pushes the research at Balenciaga, Christophe Decarnin prefers to cover the women of golod. On Thursday morning, Balenciaga seems to have transformed a floor of the hotel Crillon into a laboratory. On an illuminated podium, Nicolas Ghesquière is once again the most experimental of the current Designers. While the rest of them revisit the previous decades, Balenciaga prefers to look forward, exploiting completely the technological resources of the 21st century.
Every silhouette on the runway present such an assembly of different materials that it is difficult to identify each one. Certain of the colors of the past season – putty, mandarin, green almond – re-appear on thick belted tunics, on top of narrow pants printed of geometrical motifs. The texture effects intrigue as net blouses mix with conteoured dresses.
At Balmain, far from trying to revolutionize the fashion, Christophe Decarnin wishes to emphasize the women above all. His new collection is more twinkling than ever, rich in brockets and lamés. It is baroque, it is rock, it is at the opposite of the ambient minimalism. Some of the silhouettes are so full of effects that they recall the luxury court of Louis XIV, with fitted coats and tapestry velvet go over metallic leather jeans.
A. F. Vandevorst
A. F. Vandevorst proposes a monochrome urban amazon. Laced corsets, wide belts and strengthened shoulder straps structure a silhouette of almost medieval rider. After a beginning in beige and black, brick colored elegant outfits confirm its return next winter. Velvet and leather get involved for a fluid and very wearable silhouette.
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